April 24, 2024

The designer Nicolas Ghesquière leaves Balenciaga after 15 years at the head of the house

Propelled at the head of the house Balenciaga in 1997, was barely 26 years old, Nicolas Ghesquière had been able to Balenciaga one of the most desirable brands of the fashion world. Mixing vintage influences from Cristobal's original creations Balenciaga and more futuristic touches, the artistic director of the house had managed to create a fashion apart, personal and sharp. A garment Balenciaga he recognized himself at first glance. This radical but portable fashion had also seduced the stars, from Charlotte Gainsbourg to Kristen Stewart, the house muses, passing Nicole Kidman or Michelle Williams, among many others. Fashion editors and knowledgeable fashionistas were also conquered. Really gifted fashion, Nicolas Ghesquière was named "International designer of the year" in 2001, ahead of Karl Lagerfeld and Alexander McQueen.

It is therefore a small earthquake that has just shaken the fashion world with the announcement by the subsidiary of the PPR group that Nicolas Ghesquière leave Balenciaga from November 30 after 15 years at the artistic direction of the house. An end of collaboration decided by mutual agreement, the brand recognizing all the influence of the stylist in the renewal of the house, Nicolas Ghesquière having awakened a very beautiful mark but who had fallen asleep after the death of its creator. In the statement, François-Henri Pinault, CEO of PPR, says: "Nicolas knew with a rare talent of creator to bring home Balenciaga an essential artistic contribution to the unique influence of the brand ".

The waltz of the creators continues

This departure is part of a deep movement that has shaken the fashion world for a few seasons. For almost two years now, there has been a veritable game of musical chairs in the major fashion houses, iconic designers leaving brands whose DNA they had helped to renew thanks to their strong personality and their true fashion sense. . We had even come to believe that these artistic directors and their fashion house were one, the latter having really left their mark on each of their collections. But as fashions, designers go and the trend is no longer the star art director but the discreet designer who knows how to put the name of the brand in value without shading it. The name of Nicolas Ghesquière is added to a long list that started with John Galliano at Dior and then continued with Vanessa Seward at Azzaro, Jean Paul Gaultier at Hermès, Antonio Marras at Kenzo, Christophe Decarnin at Balmain or the very discreet Martin Margiela who totally abandoned the reins of his house.

After the announcement of this departure, several questions remain unresolved. Why this separation after 15 years of success? What future for Nicolas Ghesquière ? Will he create his own brand? And finally who to replace it? The mark having declared that it had "no information on this subject for the moment".

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